Hello!
So again a lot has happened since the last time I wrote, I believed I talked about Busua beach last.
I think right when we got back we left for Afram Plaines for work. Yes, Monday early in the morning. We were lucky though because this time we had a WUSC driver and a personal car which was much more comfortable than a tros-tros. We were a little confused at first as to why we might need a car instead of a tros-tros but it all became clear to us on the way. To get to Afram Plains was quite the adventure. First it was just the usually towns and trees, so I opened my book and started reading. Then, suddenly I looked out my window and we were driving up a giant mountain! In fact, mountains were all around us, and we were driving precariously up a huge one. Needless to say I was rather startled. When we reached the top there were more towns and villages, but they too were surrounded by more mountains and the air was so clean and fresh. As we drove on I felt as though we were traveling deeper and deeper into natural beauty...like to one of those places I see on TV, pristine forests and mountains with little outcrops of beautiful communities. At one point on our left was a huge river and on our right towering mountains and nothing else in sight. It was breathtaking. I took lots of pictures.
Eventually, we got to the Volta River (which I recently discovered was not actually the Volta River it is something else but because a dam expanded it, it now connects to the real Volta River and thus adopted its name). To get to Afram Plains we needed to take a ferrie across the river. We got back just in time because we were told that the boat was coming soon. Here, there is a different definition of the word soon... it took quite a while for the boat to arrive and when it did the largest most real game of tetrus was played. This game involved fitting MANY large trucks, cars, and tros-tros into the boat. There was this one really long truck that kept getting stuck while trying to drive up the ramp on the ferrie, and every time it would get stuck there would be a ½ hour wait while people tried to move it...they eventually got it on there. We, on the other hand, were not so fortunate; there ended up being not enough room for us, and so we had to wait in the town for an additional two hours for it to come back. At first, I admit I was a little frustrated but once I took a look at my surroundings I realised that maybe being stuck in the most beautiful place on earth for two hours is not that bad. The town was a cute little secluded place on the water... so I spent the two hours wandering around talking to kids and taking pictures. We got on the next trip and the boat ride was nice. There was more scenery and it lasted an hour. Once in Afram we traveled about another 1 and 1/2 hours to the radio station. We discussed some things with the station with regards to programming and ICT.
After our meeting with the staff at the station we discovered that one of the workers there, Ni, had a pet monkey!!! Needless to say we had to see it, so he took us and our WUSC/ AFRRI coworkers to see him! The monkey was adorable and his name was Paddy. Although he was tied to a tree, Ni explained that he is usually free to wander once he was home and that he didn’t run away. He was curious about us... I officially want a monkey.We then made way to our hotel, it was....ok. Take that as it is.
The next day we headed to the communities. The work that I did in these communities was very similar to previous work so I will spare you the details but I will say that I have never been anywhere so organized since I have been in Ghana. We pulled in to our first community and seated on beaches under a cluster of trees were over 100 people waiting for us! We were overwhelmed, especially since we had expected to have to rally people and mobilize them like we had done in other communities.We were instructed to go around and shake everybody’s hands and introduce ourselves one by one. Once the formalities were done, we presented them with a solar powered radio and a mobile phone to call the station and took some members for a focus group discussion.
The other two communities we visited were similar scenarios although not quite as overwhelming. At the second community a drum was used to summon people to the meeting and it worked very well! The third community took a bit longer as it was on the river and was a fishing community, but men and women eventually came, and they also came in numbers.
Overall our fieldwork was very successful and the community members were incredibly receiving and cooperative. It seems as though the radio programs are truly having an impact on these people’s lives. One woman explained that due to the program, she has been able to send her daughter to school. It is moments like those that make me feel like it has all been worth it.
The power was off for an entire day and night at our hotel leading to a very forced and uncomfortable sleep. Aside from that everything was good. We ate at this amazing restaurant which served masses of food for 3 cedis. . I had chicken and yams and pavala sauce.
We got back from our field work on Friday and went to the office for a bit at the end of the day. I stayed up preparing for the next day because we were going to cape coast! At 12:00 am Inka came in and Jackie pulled out three cup-cakes and the two of them sang me happy birthday! It was pretty awesome. We hung out for a bit and then went to sleep so that the next morning we could leave early enough for Cape. We took a tros-tros from the station and got there in time to eat lunch at this place outside of cape coast castle where met up with Gen and Max. Due to a misunderstanding, however, we got burgers with no meat. It was interesting. Afterwards we went into the Castle.
The Castle is a difficult experience to write about. I think that everyone should experience it because that is one of the only ways anyone could truly understand the feeling. It is a large white compound/ fort/castle on the ocean. Unfortunately, this beautiful landmark has been stained with a horrifying past. Hundreds of thousands of slaves were taken there for trade in 18th-19th century. On top, there is a breathtaking view of the ocean and of the entirety of Cape Coast. At first, I was surrounded by the sun, the waves, the old British style architecture and everything looked too gorgeous for what it was. As soon as you enter the dank cold sellers in the lower walls, however, a very different story is painted. No light, no windows or fresh air, nothing but heat and stone walls...I can’t really describe what it was like there but it was horrible. The guide did an amazing job and it was a very emotional tour.
We hung around for a while to take pictures and afterwards headed to our hotel “Hans Botel”. Hans Botel was really cool actually. The entire restaurant and bar area are on stilts raised above crocodile infested waters. Connecting them to one another and the gift shop are little bridges. The whole thing looked lovely. Most of the hotel is built on the swampy river but the sleeping area was off to the side. We were lucky enough to get a giant room with many beds all to ourselves!
Upon our arrival I definitely spotted a croc hanging around and was thoroughly excited. I heard we could pet them with the help of a guide but because the sun was going down (and quickly) we decided to wait until morning. After exploring a bit we decided to order dinner... I ordered delicious grilled lobster and mashed potatoes!!!! At only 10 Ghana Cedis (around 7$ Canadian) I couldn’t stop myself. As I waited for my dinner to be ready my whole family called to wish me happy birthday and it was very nice. I also sat conversing with my friends. The food was wonderful and just as I was finishing my friends stopped me and asked me to listen... then we rushed to where the live band was and they were singing me happy birthday! Haha! It was so much fun and we all danced together. When I got back to my table I was incredibly surprised to find a card and a birthday cake waiting for me! The cake was blue and spakly with flowers! And it tasted SOOOOO gooooood. MMmmmm
We spent the night eating and dancing to the song list and CD’s that the guys had made for the occasion. In the morning we had a nice breakfast while we watched a couple of crocodiles and a tree FULL of these beautiful blue birds. They are the kind of birds that build round nests hanging off of trees. They hang upside down to build them and it is really neat to watch. Also, they are just really cute birds. After that we followed one croc that got particularly close to the shore and watched someone from the hotel feed him dead fish. They open their mouths wide and make loud noises when they eat... it is slightly intimidating. We found out that we could not pet them until the evening and so we did not get a chance to.
We walked around this path in the back that went around the swamp and through the trees... there were tuns of these big white birds with really long necks that flew about as soon as you entered. They were kind of like cranes...maybe they were cranes.
Oh! One thing I forgot to mention is that there was also a pool, and so we swam for a couple of hours that day too.
In the afternoon the guys drove with Inka, Jacky and I to Kakum National Park. This was about an hour or so away from our hotel and Kakum is a giant protected rainforest. We did the canopy walk. What that entailed was climbing over 200 stairs and hiking into the forest, then climbing up into a tree fort. Connected to this tree for was a slew of unsteady rope bridges leading higher and higher until eventually you were suspended 250 meters (so around 800 feet?) above the rainforest floor. The first bridge was a little unnerving. Then you reach a tree fort where you may breath for a moment and wait for those in front of you to almost finish their bridge and then you may continue on to the next bridge and so on and so forth. Now under normal circumstances I am not scared of heights but these bridges swung back and forth and shook with every step!
We were assured, however, that they are checked regularly and that they are totally safe. I must say the sight while up there looking down on the forest was quite breathtaking. The trees were all twisted and neat looking with different leaves and vines hanging down. I like rainforests.
On the way back down we realised that our tour guide was the same guy who sang me happy birthday the night before! Haha Also, we saw a really cool looking scorpion. I took it’s picture.
After the Canopy walk we went back to cape coast for dinner and ate at this lovely restaurant by the ocean, right beside the castle. (It was nice but the food took a long time) We watched some children play and dance on the beach while we waited for our food.
I don’t know if I discussed in detail the feel or architecture of cape coast but it is truly a town filled with history. Just being there I felt like I was being launched through time. Many of the buildings look very old and are still standing from the colonial days. It has old British style churches and clock towers and buildings everywhere. I believe we even passed by a cobble stone street. The town was first established as a fishing community, and then was an important trading center. Many other countries came and used the area as a trading center setting up forts (which are still visible today) before the British came in. Then of course begins its sad history in the slave trade as I had mentioned before but it is almost as though all of these stories can be told by walking around the city.
After dinner we headed back to Accra.
There is more to write of course, so stay posted!
Cassie
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Monday, March 1, 2010
Weekend in Accra, Techiman, and Busua Beach
Hello my dear friends and family,
I know it has been so long since I have written. If it has not been long than definitely a lot has happened in a short period of time.
I believe that I have two weekends and a week of field work to discuss!
Well, believe it or not I still have not been to cape coast. Lol. Last weekend we were all preparing for the journey when one of us fell sick, we all slept in, and then realised that we had actually not planned the trip very well because we didn’t even know where we were going to stay. So we decided the morning of our expected departure to instead stay in Accra and see some new sights. There is a lot to do in the capital and we have not even come close to having done it all.
We decided to start our mourning with the Madina Market. We heard that there was a very big market not far from our hostel and so we decided to check it out. It was indeed a very big market. All of the streets were crowded with people. Vendors were everywhere selling shoes, purses, clothes, and things of that nature. As we wove through the streets we came to an area selling food, and the constant smell of fish hung in the air. Baskets full of fish littered the streets (the kind of fish that stare at you while you walk by....). We ended up buying some cloth to later fashion into really beautiful clothes (we have not made the clothes yet...) and we met some wonderful ladies who gave us some deals and helped us pick the cloth from the shade of their wooden stall. I also bought a new purse, and some useful doodads while in the market. We tired relatively quickly, as you can imagine heat, crowds of people and a never ending stretch of vendors can take a lot out of you. We had an entire day planned of sightseeing but after the market we kind of just fell asleep in my room for a couple of hours until our friend Jackie brought us Chinese food for dinner (our saviour). Surprising, Accra has a lot of Chinese restaurants. There are not that many near our house but we can easily go out and get some if we are craving a bit of variety.
We later watched The Proposal from my laptop and it is a really cute movie. J Then we went to sleep.
Saturday Jackie and I went to visit our friend Nelly and said Hi to Julianna and Nick in the meantime. We then decided to visit Labadi Beach as it is one of Accra’s main tourist attractions and a couple of us had not yet been there (myself included). The beach was nice, VERY touristy, there were a lot of foreigners there that is (although still a lot of locals too). Very crowded, but at least it was clean. There are nice reclining chairs that you can help yourself too under an umbrella which was very nice. The ocean was A LOT of fun to play in! There were lifeguards at Labadi and a lot of people so it is easier to be brave with the ocean waves. Nelly and I played in them for some time and rode them into the shore... it was a blast... I love beaches!
All around though there are people selling things. It was nice at first because we were looking to pick up some souvenirs but after a while the people just kind of flock you and it is hard to shake them off. Oh, another very random thing was that there were about 3 horses riding up and down the beach giving people rides for way too much money. Lol It was nice to see the horses but it seemed more dangerous than it was worth really. At one point the horse was running down the beach and actually stepped on someone who was sun tanning. Surprisingly, she was ok.
As the sun was setting on the beach and the lifeguards began to call in swimmers we decided to take our leave. We went to one of our semi-usual hangout spots: the Accra mall. Here we met up with Jess, and by chance Bridget (other volunteers) and we ate supper joyously together.
It was a nice weekend.
The following day at work we were welcomed with the news that on Tuesday we would be traveling to conduct more fieldwork, this time in Techiman. Techiman is about 7 hours north of Accra, and so quite the journey, although I was excited at the prospect of more field work and after a nice weekend in Accra I was itching to travel. We were told to set out at 5 am on Tuesday morning in order to catch a tros-tros early enough... unfortunately, we were there on time, however, due to traffic, broken down tros-tros and the general slowness with which things happen here it was not until almost 10 that we were united with our colleague and were boarding a tros-tros to Kumasi (where we would then board a connecting tros-tros to Techiman). The trip was really really interesting! Little did I know so much forest existed just outside of where I am staying! We passed through miles and miles of thick forests, with some scattered fields now and then. These fields had tall trees and circling eagles, and cool plants, and the forests were thickets of twisting trees and vines. Just looking at the beauty of the nature around me was entertaining and made me wish I could never leave. At one point we passed through two giant cliffs that rose like mountains on either side of us. The cliffs were again surrounded by forest and the sight was breathtaking. Spread throughout the trip was little breaks in the forest with small towns and villages. I was quite surprised at how many I saw actually, and where exactly I saw them. I have to admit, however, that aside from the wonderful view and the breathtaking scenery the ride was quite uncomfortable. I was shoved in the back seat where all of the bumps are felt three fold. I had quite the headache for most of the ride and 3 quarter of the roads was unpaved, the other quarter had more speed bumps than I can possibly count. On top of this I was so tired but sleep was pretty much impossible without a strong prescription of sleeping meds (which I did not have lol). 5 hours later we arrived in Kumasi where we immediately got on another tros-tros, which continued our journey for another 2 hours before arriving to Techiman.
Techiman is a nice area. Very well developed although not as crowded as Accra. We went to the station to meet the staff of Classic FM with whom we would be working for the next couple of days. And retired to our hotel for the evening.
The following day after a long meeting at the station Jacky and I set out with two employees from Classic FM who served as our translators and facilitators. They were really nice and easy to get along with. The first community that we visited was called Aworowa and I guess we encountered all of the problems there that development workers have to face. Upon arrival we decided to split up and begin with one on one case farmer interviews. Mamea and I decided to interview women, while Jacky and Kofi men.
The town was quite large and elaborate. Very different from the one described in Ada. There was a lot more infrastructures and even just in general the population was surprisingly larger than in the communities in Ada. Regardless of the larger sample we were provided with, however, we found it exceedingly difficult to find people to interview for the program. In addition when we went to go conduct our focus group there was no one there! We had to go back Friday to conduct the focus group.
The second community, Offuman, was a bit further of a drive. We were driving through forest again (although sometimes the forest would turn into long stretches of VERY tall grass....I wanted to play hide and go seek in them) for quite some time, passing clusters of huts now and then, and so I was expecting a rather small community. Once again, however, I was mistaken. As we took one last turn in the road the forest opened up and giant community presented itself (well giant compared to what we were passing on the way). We thought that Offuman would be easier than Aworowa, and to some extent it was, as we were able to conduct the focus group, but definitely with some difficulty. Again many of the farmers were gone and it took a long time to mobilize enough men and women to conduct the focus group. We also found out that the people may have been less willing to cooperate given past organisations (not affiliated with AFRRI) have come and promised them financial assistance, but never delivered. We were told by one of the locals that some people may still affiliate us with that organisation, even though we are not. We also managed to gather enough information to write a fairly comprehensive report regarding the campaign, and the last campaign, and some suggestions on how to improve awareness and listenership of the program.
The final community that we visited was Sikaa. Lunckily enough for us the whole town had already been gathered for an information session on health that was being given by a nurse when we arrived. While we waited for the first session to come to a close we were offered a seat in the chief’s palace! Every village or town has a chief, and a royal family. The etiquette for these people is a little different depending on where you are and they are highly regarded among the community members. Every chief selects a “queen mother”, who is also very influential. The Queen mother is not necessarily a real mother; any woman who is related to the chief (except for his wife) can be appointed Queen mother. This chief had a big compound within which was a raised and tiled piece of ground (almost like a stage) upon which was a throne surrounded by other upholstered chairs. On the walls behind the throne were crossed swords and pictures of the chief with various people. We requested to meet him but unfortunately he was not around while we were there. He had left to go into town, and was not to return for a little while.
When the nurse had finished talking we addressed the community regarding the program, divided into groups, and were able to carry out the focus group discussion. Sikaa’s fieldwork finished early; however, we remained there for an additional three hours awaiting transport. After being convinced that there were no taxis or tros-tros coming, we seized the opportunity to jump in the back of a pick-up truck with about 15 other community members. The truck (which I think is referred to as a Lorie when it is used to transport people) took us to the next community where we convinced a tros-tros to abandon its planned route and take us all back into Techiman.
So I officially have been writing this blog forever and saving it on my computer to continue later but the problem is every time I save it to continue it I have more to write so I will continue it now and post whatever I have at the end of the day and talk more later.... that is probably what I should have done 3 weeks ago.
Where was I?.... oh yes... once in Techiman we re-grouped and ate some food before heading off again to Aworowa for a second time... which unfortunately was not much more successful than the first time. Once arrived at the Cassava mill where the focus group was meant to be held, the women were still working and no one was really ready to hold a focus group. Luckily we managed to get enough people to sit down for a while and gather some information and in put on what we can do to improve the program, or raise awareness in their community. After the focus group, we decided to try and get a couple more one on one interviews in the community. We had only just arrived, however, when a very strong wind picked up and started blowing things all around town. Sand was spiralling around us and people started rushing to put out their cooking fires and to pack up their things. Suddenly rain began pouring down so heavily that we ran to take shelter in someone’s....shack? A building made from wood and sheets of metal where they work and sow clothing... It was definitely what many would describe as a small shack but it kept the rain out well. There we met three women, which were very nice and hospitable. Rose was the owner's name and she covered us with cloth and talked and joked with us in length. The African rain beats down harder than I have ever seen in my life, and here is the kicker, once it starts it can last for hours and hours and hours! Also, the lightning in Ghana does not strike like it does in Canada. The whole sky lights up, but you do not see the bolt, just flashes of light... also... no thunder. I don’t know why, but I am determined to find out. Often, there are also flashes of lightening without there ever being rain.
But this time there was lots of rain and we remained with the seamstresses for hours before we decided to venture into the rain. Jackie and I went first, and danced while we tried to catch a taxis, then we gave up and went back to the shack. It was another hour or so before the others were convinced that the rain was not going to let up anytime soon and came with us under a tarp to find a taxis. (Oh! Before we left though a nice gentlemen who had been waiting for us to emerge offered us some bags of his Garri as a gift ). None of the taxis wanted to drive in the rain but we finally commandeered one and convinced it to take us into town. It dropped us at the Techiman station where it was still raining. We ran in the rain tarpless for a while looking again for a taxis to take us to the hotel. No luck. So we ran all the way to the radio station where someone who owned a taxis was convinced (by a couple extras cedis) to bring us to our hotel. I had a hot shower for the first time in Africa, and I loved it.
So once back I believe we just wrote up our reports and not much very interesting happened that week, except that I got really sick from some French toast that I tried making on a cooker, and missed 2 days of work.
Luckily for me, however, I was feeling better by Friday and me and all the other volunteers had planned a trip to Busua beach, a very beautiful place and highly recommended by past volunteers and our bradt travel guides. This beach in Busua, about five hours away in the direction of cape coast. We drove along the west coast for most of the way in a tros-tros and, as usual, the sight was beautiful. Note to self: pee before leaving on long roadtrips in tros-tros...restroom stops usually consist of stopping on the side of the road with little cover, and the roads are far too bumpy to hold it in. Lol
We had to get off in Takoradi and continue our journey to Busua via taxis. We stayed at a paradise lodge in the middle of nowhere called the Green Turtle lodge. The owners were pretty much my heroes as the entire place was environmentally friendly (and clean!). The bathrooms were composted and turned into soil, everything was solar powered, recycled, or locally made. J The rooms where very up-scale looking mud huts. Haha. The walls were mud with decorative paintings on the outside but when you go inside, the room is spacious with stone floors, a stylish shower and your own washroom! We were all very surprised when we walked into our 21st century hut. Lol
The Green turtle lodge had a lovely beach right on the ocean, very good food, and a 24 hour bar. We sunbathed and talked and walked along the ocean and the whole experience was lovely.
After dinner 3 of us (myself included) signed up for the turtle night hike. This was basically a night walk along the beach with someone who was working for the conservation of the sea turtles. It was the laying season of the leatherback turtle, the world’s largest sea turtles, and some lay their eggs right there on the very beach we were walking on. Unfortunately, however, they do not lie every night, and that Saturday night was not their night, so we did not see any sea turtles but the night walk along the beach was nice and our guide was very informative. I learned a lot about sea turtles. For example, if nothing kills them they can live to be 200 years old! Also, it looks as though they cry when they surface to lay their eggs but really, their tears are salt and that is the way their bodies are able to separate the salt from the water that they drink. And did you know that a baby turtle will grow up remembering the beach where it was born and it will always go back to that spot to lay its own eggs? There is a need for more conservation work along that beach, however, because as our guide was telling us, the locals catch and eat the sea turtles, as well as their eggs that they find on the beach. Our guide has met a lot of trouble in trying to inform the people that this is an offence because the turtles are an endangered species...people make money off of the turtles so it has been hard for him to protect them.
After the night hike, Gen and I lied on the beach and watched the stars. Without power and in the middle of nowhere the stars really do shine. The Milky Way was visible, and I saw 4 shooting stars. The sound of the ocean eventually put us to sleep... we are lucky our friend found us and woke us up so we could head to our beds. We may have well stayed on the beach though. Sleep was restless in our hut. We had piled 4 extra mattresses on the ground for all of us to sleep on and there was this creature (and I think its babies) living on the roof of our hut. They made lots of noise and I am pretty sure were gnawing at our roof.
The next morning, we ate breakfast and played in the ocean before heading out. Another lesson learned: Oceans can be dangerous. Be careful, and they are fun. J
Luckily we were able to get a drive back with our friend, which was much more comfortable than the tros-tros. Once back, (which took forever with traffic!) we ate Chinese food at the Accra Mall (it was delicious) before going home to sleep because the next day we were heading out on yet another trip for work. This time to Afram Plaines.
And I know I started this blog with not having gone to Cape Coast, but just to give you an idea of how long I have been writing this blog, we have now gone. Haha . we decided to go to celebrate my 21st birthday this past weekend and it was amazing. But I will write more about that a little later.
I know it has been so long since I have written. If it has not been long than definitely a lot has happened in a short period of time.
I believe that I have two weekends and a week of field work to discuss!
Well, believe it or not I still have not been to cape coast. Lol. Last weekend we were all preparing for the journey when one of us fell sick, we all slept in, and then realised that we had actually not planned the trip very well because we didn’t even know where we were going to stay. So we decided the morning of our expected departure to instead stay in Accra and see some new sights. There is a lot to do in the capital and we have not even come close to having done it all.
We decided to start our mourning with the Madina Market. We heard that there was a very big market not far from our hostel and so we decided to check it out. It was indeed a very big market. All of the streets were crowded with people. Vendors were everywhere selling shoes, purses, clothes, and things of that nature. As we wove through the streets we came to an area selling food, and the constant smell of fish hung in the air. Baskets full of fish littered the streets (the kind of fish that stare at you while you walk by....). We ended up buying some cloth to later fashion into really beautiful clothes (we have not made the clothes yet...) and we met some wonderful ladies who gave us some deals and helped us pick the cloth from the shade of their wooden stall. I also bought a new purse, and some useful doodads while in the market. We tired relatively quickly, as you can imagine heat, crowds of people and a never ending stretch of vendors can take a lot out of you. We had an entire day planned of sightseeing but after the market we kind of just fell asleep in my room for a couple of hours until our friend Jackie brought us Chinese food for dinner (our saviour). Surprising, Accra has a lot of Chinese restaurants. There are not that many near our house but we can easily go out and get some if we are craving a bit of variety.
We later watched The Proposal from my laptop and it is a really cute movie. J Then we went to sleep.
Saturday Jackie and I went to visit our friend Nelly and said Hi to Julianna and Nick in the meantime. We then decided to visit Labadi Beach as it is one of Accra’s main tourist attractions and a couple of us had not yet been there (myself included). The beach was nice, VERY touristy, there were a lot of foreigners there that is (although still a lot of locals too). Very crowded, but at least it was clean. There are nice reclining chairs that you can help yourself too under an umbrella which was very nice. The ocean was A LOT of fun to play in! There were lifeguards at Labadi and a lot of people so it is easier to be brave with the ocean waves. Nelly and I played in them for some time and rode them into the shore... it was a blast... I love beaches!
All around though there are people selling things. It was nice at first because we were looking to pick up some souvenirs but after a while the people just kind of flock you and it is hard to shake them off. Oh, another very random thing was that there were about 3 horses riding up and down the beach giving people rides for way too much money. Lol It was nice to see the horses but it seemed more dangerous than it was worth really. At one point the horse was running down the beach and actually stepped on someone who was sun tanning. Surprisingly, she was ok.
As the sun was setting on the beach and the lifeguards began to call in swimmers we decided to take our leave. We went to one of our semi-usual hangout spots: the Accra mall. Here we met up with Jess, and by chance Bridget (other volunteers) and we ate supper joyously together.
It was a nice weekend.
The following day at work we were welcomed with the news that on Tuesday we would be traveling to conduct more fieldwork, this time in Techiman. Techiman is about 7 hours north of Accra, and so quite the journey, although I was excited at the prospect of more field work and after a nice weekend in Accra I was itching to travel. We were told to set out at 5 am on Tuesday morning in order to catch a tros-tros early enough... unfortunately, we were there on time, however, due to traffic, broken down tros-tros and the general slowness with which things happen here it was not until almost 10 that we were united with our colleague and were boarding a tros-tros to Kumasi (where we would then board a connecting tros-tros to Techiman). The trip was really really interesting! Little did I know so much forest existed just outside of where I am staying! We passed through miles and miles of thick forests, with some scattered fields now and then. These fields had tall trees and circling eagles, and cool plants, and the forests were thickets of twisting trees and vines. Just looking at the beauty of the nature around me was entertaining and made me wish I could never leave. At one point we passed through two giant cliffs that rose like mountains on either side of us. The cliffs were again surrounded by forest and the sight was breathtaking. Spread throughout the trip was little breaks in the forest with small towns and villages. I was quite surprised at how many I saw actually, and where exactly I saw them. I have to admit, however, that aside from the wonderful view and the breathtaking scenery the ride was quite uncomfortable. I was shoved in the back seat where all of the bumps are felt three fold. I had quite the headache for most of the ride and 3 quarter of the roads was unpaved, the other quarter had more speed bumps than I can possibly count. On top of this I was so tired but sleep was pretty much impossible without a strong prescription of sleeping meds (which I did not have lol). 5 hours later we arrived in Kumasi where we immediately got on another tros-tros, which continued our journey for another 2 hours before arriving to Techiman.
Techiman is a nice area. Very well developed although not as crowded as Accra. We went to the station to meet the staff of Classic FM with whom we would be working for the next couple of days. And retired to our hotel for the evening.
The following day after a long meeting at the station Jacky and I set out with two employees from Classic FM who served as our translators and facilitators. They were really nice and easy to get along with. The first community that we visited was called Aworowa and I guess we encountered all of the problems there that development workers have to face. Upon arrival we decided to split up and begin with one on one case farmer interviews. Mamea and I decided to interview women, while Jacky and Kofi men.
The town was quite large and elaborate. Very different from the one described in Ada. There was a lot more infrastructures and even just in general the population was surprisingly larger than in the communities in Ada. Regardless of the larger sample we were provided with, however, we found it exceedingly difficult to find people to interview for the program. In addition when we went to go conduct our focus group there was no one there! We had to go back Friday to conduct the focus group.
The second community, Offuman, was a bit further of a drive. We were driving through forest again (although sometimes the forest would turn into long stretches of VERY tall grass....I wanted to play hide and go seek in them) for quite some time, passing clusters of huts now and then, and so I was expecting a rather small community. Once again, however, I was mistaken. As we took one last turn in the road the forest opened up and giant community presented itself (well giant compared to what we were passing on the way). We thought that Offuman would be easier than Aworowa, and to some extent it was, as we were able to conduct the focus group, but definitely with some difficulty. Again many of the farmers were gone and it took a long time to mobilize enough men and women to conduct the focus group. We also found out that the people may have been less willing to cooperate given past organisations (not affiliated with AFRRI) have come and promised them financial assistance, but never delivered. We were told by one of the locals that some people may still affiliate us with that organisation, even though we are not. We also managed to gather enough information to write a fairly comprehensive report regarding the campaign, and the last campaign, and some suggestions on how to improve awareness and listenership of the program.
The final community that we visited was Sikaa. Lunckily enough for us the whole town had already been gathered for an information session on health that was being given by a nurse when we arrived. While we waited for the first session to come to a close we were offered a seat in the chief’s palace! Every village or town has a chief, and a royal family. The etiquette for these people is a little different depending on where you are and they are highly regarded among the community members. Every chief selects a “queen mother”, who is also very influential. The Queen mother is not necessarily a real mother; any woman who is related to the chief (except for his wife) can be appointed Queen mother. This chief had a big compound within which was a raised and tiled piece of ground (almost like a stage) upon which was a throne surrounded by other upholstered chairs. On the walls behind the throne were crossed swords and pictures of the chief with various people. We requested to meet him but unfortunately he was not around while we were there. He had left to go into town, and was not to return for a little while.
When the nurse had finished talking we addressed the community regarding the program, divided into groups, and were able to carry out the focus group discussion. Sikaa’s fieldwork finished early; however, we remained there for an additional three hours awaiting transport. After being convinced that there were no taxis or tros-tros coming, we seized the opportunity to jump in the back of a pick-up truck with about 15 other community members. The truck (which I think is referred to as a Lorie when it is used to transport people) took us to the next community where we convinced a tros-tros to abandon its planned route and take us all back into Techiman.
So I officially have been writing this blog forever and saving it on my computer to continue later but the problem is every time I save it to continue it I have more to write so I will continue it now and post whatever I have at the end of the day and talk more later.... that is probably what I should have done 3 weeks ago.
Where was I?.... oh yes... once in Techiman we re-grouped and ate some food before heading off again to Aworowa for a second time... which unfortunately was not much more successful than the first time. Once arrived at the Cassava mill where the focus group was meant to be held, the women were still working and no one was really ready to hold a focus group. Luckily we managed to get enough people to sit down for a while and gather some information and in put on what we can do to improve the program, or raise awareness in their community. After the focus group, we decided to try and get a couple more one on one interviews in the community. We had only just arrived, however, when a very strong wind picked up and started blowing things all around town. Sand was spiralling around us and people started rushing to put out their cooking fires and to pack up their things. Suddenly rain began pouring down so heavily that we ran to take shelter in someone’s....shack? A building made from wood and sheets of metal where they work and sow clothing... It was definitely what many would describe as a small shack but it kept the rain out well. There we met three women, which were very nice and hospitable. Rose was the owner's name and she covered us with cloth and talked and joked with us in length. The African rain beats down harder than I have ever seen in my life, and here is the kicker, once it starts it can last for hours and hours and hours! Also, the lightning in Ghana does not strike like it does in Canada. The whole sky lights up, but you do not see the bolt, just flashes of light... also... no thunder. I don’t know why, but I am determined to find out. Often, there are also flashes of lightening without there ever being rain.
But this time there was lots of rain and we remained with the seamstresses for hours before we decided to venture into the rain. Jackie and I went first, and danced while we tried to catch a taxis, then we gave up and went back to the shack. It was another hour or so before the others were convinced that the rain was not going to let up anytime soon and came with us under a tarp to find a taxis. (Oh! Before we left though a nice gentlemen who had been waiting for us to emerge offered us some bags of his Garri as a gift ). None of the taxis wanted to drive in the rain but we finally commandeered one and convinced it to take us into town. It dropped us at the Techiman station where it was still raining. We ran in the rain tarpless for a while looking again for a taxis to take us to the hotel. No luck. So we ran all the way to the radio station where someone who owned a taxis was convinced (by a couple extras cedis) to bring us to our hotel. I had a hot shower for the first time in Africa, and I loved it.
So once back I believe we just wrote up our reports and not much very interesting happened that week, except that I got really sick from some French toast that I tried making on a cooker, and missed 2 days of work.
Luckily for me, however, I was feeling better by Friday and me and all the other volunteers had planned a trip to Busua beach, a very beautiful place and highly recommended by past volunteers and our bradt travel guides. This beach in Busua, about five hours away in the direction of cape coast. We drove along the west coast for most of the way in a tros-tros and, as usual, the sight was beautiful. Note to self: pee before leaving on long roadtrips in tros-tros...restroom stops usually consist of stopping on the side of the road with little cover, and the roads are far too bumpy to hold it in. Lol
We had to get off in Takoradi and continue our journey to Busua via taxis. We stayed at a paradise lodge in the middle of nowhere called the Green Turtle lodge. The owners were pretty much my heroes as the entire place was environmentally friendly (and clean!). The bathrooms were composted and turned into soil, everything was solar powered, recycled, or locally made. J The rooms where very up-scale looking mud huts. Haha. The walls were mud with decorative paintings on the outside but when you go inside, the room is spacious with stone floors, a stylish shower and your own washroom! We were all very surprised when we walked into our 21st century hut. Lol
The Green turtle lodge had a lovely beach right on the ocean, very good food, and a 24 hour bar. We sunbathed and talked and walked along the ocean and the whole experience was lovely.
After dinner 3 of us (myself included) signed up for the turtle night hike. This was basically a night walk along the beach with someone who was working for the conservation of the sea turtles. It was the laying season of the leatherback turtle, the world’s largest sea turtles, and some lay their eggs right there on the very beach we were walking on. Unfortunately, however, they do not lie every night, and that Saturday night was not their night, so we did not see any sea turtles but the night walk along the beach was nice and our guide was very informative. I learned a lot about sea turtles. For example, if nothing kills them they can live to be 200 years old! Also, it looks as though they cry when they surface to lay their eggs but really, their tears are salt and that is the way their bodies are able to separate the salt from the water that they drink. And did you know that a baby turtle will grow up remembering the beach where it was born and it will always go back to that spot to lay its own eggs? There is a need for more conservation work along that beach, however, because as our guide was telling us, the locals catch and eat the sea turtles, as well as their eggs that they find on the beach. Our guide has met a lot of trouble in trying to inform the people that this is an offence because the turtles are an endangered species...people make money off of the turtles so it has been hard for him to protect them.
After the night hike, Gen and I lied on the beach and watched the stars. Without power and in the middle of nowhere the stars really do shine. The Milky Way was visible, and I saw 4 shooting stars. The sound of the ocean eventually put us to sleep... we are lucky our friend found us and woke us up so we could head to our beds. We may have well stayed on the beach though. Sleep was restless in our hut. We had piled 4 extra mattresses on the ground for all of us to sleep on and there was this creature (and I think its babies) living on the roof of our hut. They made lots of noise and I am pretty sure were gnawing at our roof.
The next morning, we ate breakfast and played in the ocean before heading out. Another lesson learned: Oceans can be dangerous. Be careful, and they are fun. J
Luckily we were able to get a drive back with our friend, which was much more comfortable than the tros-tros. Once back, (which took forever with traffic!) we ate Chinese food at the Accra Mall (it was delicious) before going home to sleep because the next day we were heading out on yet another trip for work. This time to Afram Plaines.
And I know I started this blog with not having gone to Cape Coast, but just to give you an idea of how long I have been writing this blog, we have now gone. Haha . we decided to go to celebrate my 21st birthday this past weekend and it was amazing. But I will write more about that a little later.
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