Weekend in Accra, Techiman, and Busua Beach

Hello my dear friends and family,

I know it has been so long since I have written. If it has not been long than definitely a lot has happened in a short period of time.

I believe that I have two weekends and a week of field work to discuss!

Well, believe it or not I still have not been to cape coast. Lol. Last weekend we were all preparing for the journey when one of us fell sick, we all slept in, and then realised that we had actually not planned the trip very well because we didn’t even know where we were going to stay. So we decided the morning of our expected departure to instead stay in Accra and see some new sights. There is a lot to do in the capital and we have not even come close to having done it all.

We decided to start our mourning with the Madina Market. We heard that there was a very big market not far from our hostel and so we decided to check it out. It was indeed a very big market. All of the streets were crowded with people. Vendors were everywhere selling shoes, purses, clothes, and things of that nature. As we wove through the streets we came to an area selling food, and the constant smell of fish hung in the air. Baskets full of fish littered the streets (the kind of fish that stare at you while you walk by....). We ended up buying some cloth to later fashion into really beautiful clothes (we have not made the clothes yet...) and we met some wonderful ladies who gave us some deals and helped us pick the cloth from the shade of their wooden stall. I also bought a new purse, and some useful doodads while in the market. We tired relatively quickly, as you can imagine heat, crowds of people and a never ending stretch of vendors can take a lot out of you. We had an entire day planned of sightseeing but after the market we kind of just fell asleep in my room for a couple of hours until our friend Jackie brought us Chinese food for dinner (our saviour). Surprising, Accra has a lot of Chinese restaurants. There are not that many near our house but we can easily go out and get some if we are craving a bit of variety.
We later watched The Proposal from my laptop and it is a really cute movie. J Then we went to sleep.

Saturday Jackie and I went to visit our friend Nelly and said Hi to Julianna and Nick in the meantime. We then decided to visit Labadi Beach as it is one of Accra’s main tourist attractions and a couple of us had not yet been there (myself included). The beach was nice, VERY touristy, there were a lot of foreigners there that is (although still a lot of locals too). Very crowded, but at least it was clean. There are nice reclining chairs that you can help yourself too under an umbrella which was very nice. The ocean was A LOT of fun to play in! There were lifeguards at Labadi and a lot of people so it is easier to be brave with the ocean waves. Nelly and I played in them for some time and rode them into the shore... it was a blast... I love beaches!

All around though there are people selling things. It was nice at first because we were looking to pick up some souvenirs but after a while the people just kind of flock you and it is hard to shake them off. Oh, another very random thing was that there were about 3 horses riding up and down the beach giving people rides for way too much money. Lol It was nice to see the horses but it seemed more dangerous than it was worth really. At one point the horse was running down the beach and actually stepped on someone who was sun tanning. Surprisingly, she was ok.
As the sun was setting on the beach and the lifeguards began to call in swimmers we decided to take our leave. We went to one of our semi-usual hangout spots: the Accra mall. Here we met up with Jess, and by chance Bridget (other volunteers) and we ate supper joyously together.
It was a nice weekend.

The following day at work we were welcomed with the news that on Tuesday we would be traveling to conduct more fieldwork, this time in Techiman. Techiman is about 7 hours north of Accra, and so quite the journey, although I was excited at the prospect of more field work and after a nice weekend in Accra I was itching to travel. We were told to set out at 5 am on Tuesday morning in order to catch a tros-tros early enough... unfortunately, we were there on time, however, due to traffic, broken down tros-tros and the general slowness with which things happen here it was not until almost 10 that we were united with our colleague and were boarding a tros-tros to Kumasi (where we would then board a connecting tros-tros to Techiman). The trip was really really interesting! Little did I know so much forest existed just outside of where I am staying! We passed through miles and miles of thick forests, with some scattered fields now and then. These fields had tall trees and circling eagles, and cool plants, and the forests were thickets of twisting trees and vines. Just looking at the beauty of the nature around me was entertaining and made me wish I could never leave. At one point we passed through two giant cliffs that rose like mountains on either side of us. The cliffs were again surrounded by forest and the sight was breathtaking. Spread throughout the trip was little breaks in the forest with small towns and villages. I was quite surprised at how many I saw actually, and where exactly I saw them. I have to admit, however, that aside from the wonderful view and the breathtaking scenery the ride was quite uncomfortable. I was shoved in the back seat where all of the bumps are felt three fold. I had quite the headache for most of the ride and 3 quarter of the roads was unpaved, the other quarter had more speed bumps than I can possibly count. On top of this I was so tired but sleep was pretty much impossible without a strong prescription of sleeping meds (which I did not have lol). 5 hours later we arrived in Kumasi where we immediately got on another tros-tros, which continued our journey for another 2 hours before arriving to Techiman.

Techiman is a nice area. Very well developed although not as crowded as Accra. We went to the station to meet the staff of Classic FM with whom we would be working for the next couple of days. And retired to our hotel for the evening.

The following day after a long meeting at the station Jacky and I set out with two employees from Classic FM who served as our translators and facilitators. They were really nice and easy to get along with. The first community that we visited was called Aworowa and I guess we encountered all of the problems there that development workers have to face. Upon arrival we decided to split up and begin with one on one case farmer interviews. Mamea and I decided to interview women, while Jacky and Kofi men.

The town was quite large and elaborate. Very different from the one described in Ada. There was a lot more infrastructures and even just in general the population was surprisingly larger than in the communities in Ada. Regardless of the larger sample we were provided with, however, we found it exceedingly difficult to find people to interview for the program. In addition when we went to go conduct our focus group there was no one there! We had to go back Friday to conduct the focus group.

The second community, Offuman, was a bit further of a drive. We were driving through forest again (although sometimes the forest would turn into long stretches of VERY tall grass....I wanted to play hide and go seek in them) for quite some time, passing clusters of huts now and then, and so I was expecting a rather small community. Once again, however, I was mistaken. As we took one last turn in the road the forest opened up and giant community presented itself (well giant compared to what we were passing on the way). We thought that Offuman would be easier than Aworowa, and to some extent it was, as we were able to conduct the focus group, but definitely with some difficulty. Again many of the farmers were gone and it took a long time to mobilize enough men and women to conduct the focus group. We also found out that the people may have been less willing to cooperate given past organisations (not affiliated with AFRRI) have come and promised them financial assistance, but never delivered. We were told by one of the locals that some people may still affiliate us with that organisation, even though we are not. We also managed to gather enough information to write a fairly comprehensive report regarding the campaign, and the last campaign, and some suggestions on how to improve awareness and listenership of the program.

The final community that we visited was Sikaa. Lunckily enough for us the whole town had already been gathered for an information session on health that was being given by a nurse when we arrived. While we waited for the first session to come to a close we were offered a seat in the chief’s palace! Every village or town has a chief, and a royal family. The etiquette for these people is a little different depending on where you are and they are highly regarded among the community members. Every chief selects a “queen mother”, who is also very influential. The Queen mother is not necessarily a real mother; any woman who is related to the chief (except for his wife) can be appointed Queen mother. This chief had a big compound within which was a raised and tiled piece of ground (almost like a stage) upon which was a throne surrounded by other upholstered chairs. On the walls behind the throne were crossed swords and pictures of the chief with various people. We requested to meet him but unfortunately he was not around while we were there. He had left to go into town, and was not to return for a little while.

When the nurse had finished talking we addressed the community regarding the program, divided into groups, and were able to carry out the focus group discussion. Sikaa’s fieldwork finished early; however, we remained there for an additional three hours awaiting transport. After being convinced that there were no taxis or tros-tros coming, we seized the opportunity to jump in the back of a pick-up truck with about 15 other community members. The truck (which I think is referred to as a Lorie when it is used to transport people) took us to the next community where we convinced a tros-tros to abandon its planned route and take us all back into Techiman.

So I officially have been writing this blog forever and saving it on my computer to continue later but the problem is every time I save it to continue it I have more to write so I will continue it now and post whatever I have at the end of the day and talk more later.... that is probably what I should have done 3 weeks ago.

Where was I?.... oh yes... once in Techiman we re-grouped and ate some food before heading off again to Aworowa for a second time... which unfortunately was not much more successful than the first time. Once arrived at the Cassava mill where the focus group was meant to be held, the women were still working and no one was really ready to hold a focus group. Luckily we managed to get enough people to sit down for a while and gather some information and in put on what we can do to improve the program, or raise awareness in their community. After the focus group, we decided to try and get a couple more one on one interviews in the community. We had only just arrived, however, when a very strong wind picked up and started blowing things all around town. Sand was spiralling around us and people started rushing to put out their cooking fires and to pack up their things. Suddenly rain began pouring down so heavily that we ran to take shelter in someone’s....shack? A building made from wood and sheets of metal where they work and sow clothing... It was definitely what many would describe as a small shack but it kept the rain out well. There we met three women, which were very nice and hospitable. Rose was the owner's name and she covered us with cloth and talked and joked with us in length. The African rain beats down harder than I have ever seen in my life, and here is the kicker, once it starts it can last for hours and hours and hours! Also, the lightning in Ghana does not strike like it does in Canada. The whole sky lights up, but you do not see the bolt, just flashes of light... also... no thunder. I don’t know why, but I am determined to find out. Often, there are also flashes of lightening without there ever being rain.

But this time there was lots of rain and we remained with the seamstresses for hours before we decided to venture into the rain. Jackie and I went first, and danced while we tried to catch a taxis, then we gave up and went back to the shack. It was another hour or so before the others were convinced that the rain was not going to let up anytime soon and came with us under a tarp to find a taxis. (Oh! Before we left though a nice gentlemen who had been waiting for us to emerge offered us some bags of his Garri as a gift ). None of the taxis wanted to drive in the rain but we finally commandeered one and convinced it to take us into town. It dropped us at the Techiman station where it was still raining. We ran in the rain tarpless for a while looking again for a taxis to take us to the hotel. No luck. So we ran all the way to the radio station where someone who owned a taxis was convinced (by a couple extras cedis) to bring us to our hotel. I had a hot shower for the first time in Africa, and I loved it.

So once back I believe we just wrote up our reports and not much very interesting happened that week, except that I got really sick from some French toast that I tried making on a cooker, and missed 2 days of work.

Luckily for me, however, I was feeling better by Friday and me and all the other volunteers had planned a trip to Busua beach, a very beautiful place and highly recommended by past volunteers and our bradt travel guides. This beach in Busua, about five hours away in the direction of cape coast. We drove along the west coast for most of the way in a tros-tros and, as usual, the sight was beautiful. Note to self: pee before leaving on long roadtrips in tros-tros...restroom stops usually consist of stopping on the side of the road with little cover, and the roads are far too bumpy to hold it in. Lol

We had to get off in Takoradi and continue our journey to Busua via taxis. We stayed at a paradise lodge in the middle of nowhere called the Green Turtle lodge. The owners were pretty much my heroes as the entire place was environmentally friendly (and clean!). The bathrooms were composted and turned into soil, everything was solar powered, recycled, or locally made. J The rooms where very up-scale looking mud huts. Haha. The walls were mud with decorative paintings on the outside but when you go inside, the room is spacious with stone floors, a stylish shower and your own washroom! We were all very surprised when we walked into our 21st century hut. Lol

The Green turtle lodge had a lovely beach right on the ocean, very good food, and a 24 hour bar. We sunbathed and talked and walked along the ocean and the whole experience was lovely.
After dinner 3 of us (myself included) signed up for the turtle night hike. This was basically a night walk along the beach with someone who was working for the conservation of the sea turtles. It was the laying season of the leatherback turtle, the world’s largest sea turtles, and some lay their eggs right there on the very beach we were walking on. Unfortunately, however, they do not lie every night, and that Saturday night was not their night, so we did not see any sea turtles but the night walk along the beach was nice and our guide was very informative. I learned a lot about sea turtles. For example, if nothing kills them they can live to be 200 years old! Also, it looks as though they cry when they surface to lay their eggs but really, their tears are salt and that is the way their bodies are able to separate the salt from the water that they drink. And did you know that a baby turtle will grow up remembering the beach where it was born and it will always go back to that spot to lay its own eggs? There is a need for more conservation work along that beach, however, because as our guide was telling us, the locals catch and eat the sea turtles, as well as their eggs that they find on the beach. Our guide has met a lot of trouble in trying to inform the people that this is an offence because the turtles are an endangered species...people make money off of the turtles so it has been hard for him to protect them.

After the night hike, Gen and I lied on the beach and watched the stars. Without power and in the middle of nowhere the stars really do shine. The Milky Way was visible, and I saw 4 shooting stars. The sound of the ocean eventually put us to sleep... we are lucky our friend found us and woke us up so we could head to our beds. We may have well stayed on the beach though. Sleep was restless in our hut. We had piled 4 extra mattresses on the ground for all of us to sleep on and there was this creature (and I think its babies) living on the roof of our hut. They made lots of noise and I am pretty sure were gnawing at our roof.

The next morning, we ate breakfast and played in the ocean before heading out. Another lesson learned: Oceans can be dangerous. Be careful, and they are fun. J
Luckily we were able to get a drive back with our friend, which was much more comfortable than the tros-tros. Once back, (which took forever with traffic!) we ate Chinese food at the Accra Mall (it was delicious) before going home to sleep because the next day we were heading out on yet another trip for work. This time to Afram Plaines.

And I know I started this blog with not having gone to Cape Coast, but just to give you an idea of how long I have been writing this blog, we have now gone. Haha . we decided to go to celebrate my 21st birthday this past weekend and it was amazing. But I will write more about that a little later.